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British Indian Restaurant Recipes - Main Dishes => British Indian Restaurant Recipes - Main Dishes => Madras => Topic started by: salamander on May 06, 2007, 08:12 PM

Title: Madras Base Sauce
Post by: salamander on May 06, 2007, 08:12 PM
Hi Everyone,
I have been a curryholic for about 35 years enjoying meals in restaurants and also from takeaways in whichever towns I have been living/working. I have also cooked currys at home for many years and similarly to many other contributors have failed in finding the seemingly elusive aroma/taste.
After several weeks of reviewing base sauce recipes on this wonderful site I would like to chip in with an adaptation of a recipe featured on the Spices of India website. This is the first time that I have created a sauce that is truly comparable with the BIR sauce.
It is the Meat Madras listed on the right-hand side of their home page.
With my first attempt I followed the recipe to the letter but excluded the meat, simply because I did not wish to waste money on meat if the sauce was poor. However, the resultant sauce was excellent although at stage 6 I simmered for several hours occasionally skimming off small amounts of froth. I then left this to mature overnight, the following day using about 6 tablespoons in which to cook some lamb (about 6oz). This was sufficient for one meal.
The recipe will make enough sauce for 4 meals in total.
I have since adapted the sauce further, adding a half tsp of ground fenugreek and 1 tsp paprika into the spice mix. I also increased the onions to 3 and blended all the tomatoes, adding half at stage 3 and the remainder at stage 6. As I like a quite tomato-y sauce I also added 2 skinned, de-seeded chopped fresh tomatoes at stage 6 with also a squirt of lemon juice and about a half tablespoon of dried fenugreek leaf at this stage.
Again I left this overnight and have just used 12 tablespoons in which to cook a half pound or so of diced lamb. It was absolutely wonderful. Even though I say it myself, it easily surpassed the equivelant meal from my local takeaway (and this is the one I consider to be the best in town).
The only other way that I have deviated from the recipe is to use half and half vegetable oil/ghee.
If you prefer a Madras style (although this one is not particularly hot) rich sauce then I would urge you to try this recipe.
It does benefit from the extra simmering time in which the sauce darkens from an orangey brown to a deep red/brown. The overnight maturation allows the sauce to maximise and intensify the flavours and darken a little more.
Enjoy,
Salamander.

Here is the recipe from the spices of india site (submitted by Admin)
This rather hot, but absolutely delicious dish, takes its' name from the city of Madras in Southern India. In Southern India dishes tend to be made 'hotter' than other areas in India, designed to make you perspire, thus cooling you down...

Serves:
6

Preparation Time: 
30-minutes.

Cooking Time: 
1? hours.

Ingredients: 
6 tbsp Ghee
Buy... 
  1kg Lamb or Beef (fat removed and cut into 1-inch cubes)   
  2-medium sized Onions, peeled and coarsely chopped   
  1-inch cube Root-Ginger, peeled and coarsely chopped   
  4 Cloves Garlic, peeled and coarsely chopped   
  2 Cloves Garlic, crushed   
  6-10 Curry Leaves 
  1 pinch Asafoetida
  2 Green Chillies, finely chopped   
  4 Dry Red Chillies, coarsely chopped 
  1 tin Peeled Plum Tomatoes   
  3 tsps Ground Cumin
  1 tsp Ground Coriander 
  1 tsp Ground Turmeric 
  ? tsp Chilli Powder 
  2 Black Cardamoms (top chopped off) 
  200ml Warm Water   
  ? tsp Salt (or to taste)   
  1 tsp Garam Masala Buy... 
  1 tbsp Chopped Coriander Leaves   

Instructions: 
1. Heat 3 tbsps Ghee over medium heat and stir-fry the Onions, Ginger, Garlic and Red Chillies for about 8 minutes or until the onions are soft. Remove mixture to food processor/blender and allow to cool.

2. Heat the remaining Ghee over medium/high heat and add the Curry Leaves. Fry for 30-seconds, then add the pinch of Asafoetida immediately followed by the Crushed Garlic and Green Chillies. Fry until the Garlic starts to brown.

3. Add the Ground Coriander, Cumin, Turmeric and Chilli powder and stir-fry for a further minute. (If spice mixture sticks to the pan remove from heat and add a little more Ghee). Add half the tin of Plum Tomatoes and continue stirring for a futher 3-4 minutes.

4. Add the Lamb (or Beef) and flash fry on a medium/high heat, constantly turning the meat until it is sealed (browned) approx 5 minutes.

5. Add the Warm Water and Black Cardamoms, bring to the boil, cover and simmer for 30-minutes.

6. Add the other half Tin Tomatoes to the mix in the Blender and blend until smooth. Stir this paste into the meat in the pan, along with any Salt. Bring back to the boil, cover and simmer for a further 50-minutes (or until meat is Tender)

7. Stir in the Garam Masala and Coriander Leaves and remove from heat...

Serving ideas: Serve with Pilau Rice, Saag Paneer plus any Indian Breads.

Suitable for freezing.

Meat Madras is supposed to be a hot dish but if you find it 'too hot' then de-seed the green chillies and/or use less Chilli Powder/red Chillies.

Enjoy! 
Title: Re: Madras Base Sauce
Post by: lorrydoo on May 28, 2007, 08:19 PM
This looks pretty good, has anyone tried it yet?
Title: Re: Madras Base Sauce
Post by: mike travis on May 28, 2007, 08:29 PM
Hi salamander  ;) welcome to curry heaven. Nice post look forward to hearing more from you.. ;D 
Title: Re: Madras Base Sauce
Post by: Paul-B on May 31, 2007, 03:03 PM
Hi Salamander. Thanks for the recipe, any chance you could post some pics of the sauce and of the end curry?

Ta muchly.
Title: Re: Madras Base Sauce
Post by: lorrydoo on June 01, 2007, 01:10 PM
Salamander, I made your Madras the other day but had a bit of a disaster due to me altering some of the ingredients!   That said, I belive this is the closest yet I have got to a BIR curry.  Thank you for your post.
Title: Re: Madras Base Sauce
Post by: lorrydoo on June 01, 2007, 01:15 PM
Oh and by the way, the ingredients I altered were the tomato's.  Instead of using a tin of tomato's, I made some frito using 500ml of pasata and some garlic and reduced it by half.  It then came out with a very strong tomato flavour, so I know where to adjust next time.  I also reduced the amount of cumin as I thought 3 teaspoons was a little excessive in comparason to the small amount of final curry sauce.
Title: Re: Madras Base Sauce
Post by: lorrydoo on June 02, 2007, 09:35 AM
Now made this curry as well, following it to the letter and I didn't get the same results as Salamander unfortunately!  Not BIR taste.
Title: Re: Madras Base Sauce
Post by: lorrydoo on June 02, 2007, 09:44 AM
The quest of making a BIR seems impossible, its pretty disheartening comming out with negative results all the time.  The best I can do is make a moorish tasty curry but it never has the BIR taste which as we know is the ultimate goal. 
Title: Re: Madras Base Sauce
Post by: mike travis on June 07, 2007, 10:50 PM
Hi Lorrydoo,  ;) I don't think we will ever achieve an exact carbon copy BIR curry. That said, I do believe we can get damn close.

My image of a typical BIR kitchen is one where all the preparation is done during the day when the restaurant is closed. The base sauce is made up of cheapish ingredients keeping it(basic). Large containers of onions/garlic/ginger and chili peppers. An abundance of spices etc. So it only takes a short time to make up a curry.

I have posted a recipe in the Authentic section of this forum. This is the closest I have come to a BIR. The difference being it took me an hour and a half or so to prepare and cook (you wouldn't wait that long in a takeaway/restaurant)but if you add the preparation time during the day and add to the time cooked on an evening they are virtually the same.

Am I making any sense or talking rubbish?  ???
Title: Re: Madras Base Sauce
Post by: mike travis on June 07, 2007, 11:00 PM
By the way that Authentic recipe is here. http://www.curry-recipes.co.uk/curry/index.php?topic=891.0  ..regards.
Title: Re: Madras Base Sauce
Post by: lorrydoo on June 09, 2007, 02:20 PM
Hi Mike thanks for your advice, I will have a look at making your curry when I next get a break from work.  I was telling Curry King the other day about my obsession to recreate my local takeaway curry and how I bought a porion of plain Madras sauce and put it through a sive to find out what solids where in it!!  Crazy I know but such is my obssession lateley.

The only thing I could identify was curry leaves (dried) onion and the skin of either a capsicum and/or a green chilli.  There were also a few very small seeds, the same as cumin but smaller. 

Last week my wife asked the take away what they put in the Madras, as you would imagine, they remained tight lipped!  All they would say is that it was a grayy that had spices in it and when pushed the guy said there were too many spices to mention as there where litrally hundreds in it, so he claimed.  I doubt very much there are, and think it is probbably less then we think.

My latest thinking is that they start with or use at some point, real chicken gravey or a form of chicken stock that exudes a genuine chicken flavour.  This is coupled with pureed onions as we already know and there is also a tomato element also, possibly reduced passata.  This is then spiced and somewhere along the line garic and ginger are added.  In my mind, these are the basic componets in a bIR curry but their proportion and timing are a bit of a mystery.
Title: Re: Madras Base Sauce
Post by: lorrydoo on June 09, 2007, 02:23 PM
Forgot to mention, after leaving the Madras sauce in the fridge over night, I asked my daughter to smell it, she imediatley said "that smells like gravy and chips."  and a bit like a sunday dinner.  This could be something and does point toward the use of real chicken gravy.
Title: Re: Madras Base Sauce
Post by: mike travis on June 09, 2007, 10:58 PM
Hi Lorrydoo,  ;) the base sauce could be as simple as a chicken gravy as you say. The point I was trying to make is that I think the base sauce is just added to make up the amount of finished sauce, its what is done prior to adding it that I think is a key.

I cooked a Chicken Curry tonight using a portion of Onion`s base sauce. Now, Onion`s base sauce is somewhat of a time consumer (no disrespect to Onion) but the end result is more like a curry sauce than a base sauce and it does produce a very nice curry. Stew`s base is less time consuming but I found it to be similar to Onion`s(no disrespect stew) (more curry than base/very nice curry). Darths`s base on the other hand, is simple, uses cheap ingredients,looks more like a broth than a curry and makes a large quantity. This is the sort of thing I imagine a BIR kitchen to use.

I fried some onions for at least 35Min's until they were dark brown (not burnt)then added ginger/garlic and chilli's. After a few Min's added some spices/a little chicken stock,base sauce then chicken/tomatoes. Result, very nice.

I think next curry I do I will boil some onions and blend them, then fry them until brown and see what difference it makes.

It is frustrating.  >:(   ;D
Title: Re: Madras Base Sauce
Post by: Cory Ander on June 13, 2007, 01:55 AM
Am I making any sense or talking rubbish?  ???

.....or still simply talking to yourself perhaps? ;)

.....who's a pretty boy then!  ;D
Title: Re: Madras Base Sauce
Post by: mike travis on June 13, 2007, 09:45 PM
Hi CA,  ;) I have spent a while talking to my self, talking to myself. If it wasn't for the other pretty boy in the cracked mirror I would have lost the plot ages ago  :D . Cheers mate  ;)
Title: Re: Madras Base Sauce
Post by: Secret Santa on June 15, 2007, 09:56 PM
sort of in reply to the gravy and chips post.

I can say for sure that the sort of authentic BIR curry i am used to never smells anything other than a BIR curry, wheteher frozen mashed or whatever.

It's a very distinctive taste/aroma and always lingers in the oil left on the plate.

What really worries me is that some of the more inferior curries, those like andy 10 years produces are actually now making their way to my town, arghhh.

this is really depressing