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Topics - Peripatetic Phil

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321
Kris Dhillon was my first BIR mentor, and her "Curry Secret" literally changed my life, but as time went by my confidence grew and eventually I started creating my own recipes and evolving my own methodology.  Now, after several years of experimentation,  I decided that it was time to go back to my roots and to re-create a basic Kris Dhillon dish (in this case, Chicken Madras), to see how it compared with my own recent offerings.  The following sequence of photographs illustrates the progression, starting with the basic cooking utensils and ending up at the finished curry.  Any deviations from Kris Dhillon's recipes or methodology are noted at the appropriate photograph.



The induction hob and cast-iron pot for preparing the base sauce



Raw red onion, liquidised ginger & garlic, salt and water; cooked for 45 minutes
(Kris says "cooking onions", not red onions; I did not peel the ginger; nothing was washed)



Unwanted strips of outer skin of red onions, removed before liquidising



The liquidised stage-1 sauce



Stage-1 sauce + oil, liquidised peeled plum tomatoes, tomato puree, turmeric & paprika



The completed stage-2 sauce, cooked for a further 25 minutes; unskimmed



Ghee-fried "Shana" frozen stuffed paratha (aloo palak)



Chicken Madras a la Kris Dhillon
(8oz pre-cooked chicken; 3/4 pint stage-2 sauce; 1 teaspoon salt; 2 teaspoons ground chillies; 1 teaspoon ground cumin; 1/2 teaspoon ground fenugreek; chopped coriander stalks and two small red chillies added 2 minutes before serving; garnished with chopped coriander leaves at point of serving; all teaspoons rounded, not flat.  No garam masala, no raw tomato)

And the end results ?  Far far better than I had anticipated.  This dish would not have disgraced the Taj of Kent.  My wife also agreed that this was noticeably better than my recent offerings, despite the fact that she had thoroughly enjoyed those when they were served.

Conclusions ?  "Less is more".  This is about as basic a BIR curry as you can get, yet it left nothing to be desired.  I have reserved two pieces of chicken in adequate sauce, and will repeat this dish substituting Bassar Curry Masala for the ground red chillies whilst making no other changes, then compare the two to see which I prefer (and ask my wife the same question).  Thereafter I will continue to make only one change per curry, and to keep a little of the previous best curry to evaluate, by comparison, whether the change is beneficial or retrograde.

** Phil.

322
Talk About Anything Other Than Curry / Cream
« on: November 04, 2010, 07:42 PM »
For about the last fifty years, I have drunk my coffee with cream, ever since discovering the pleasures thereof in Twining's Coffee House in The Strand.  For a few years I switched to Elmlea, which seemed almost as good and lasted a darned sight longer, but then I switched back and have remained with real cream ever since.  But what surprises me is just how different one real cream can be from another.  Regardlesss of whether it's single, double, extra-thick, whipping or whatever, almost all supermarket creams taste virtually the same.  But just a few miles from our home, there is the Hinxden Dairy, and their cream is out of this world.  One sip of coffee with Hinxden Double, and I am transported back in time to coffee in Twinings, an establishment virtually unchanged since its inception in 1717. What is it, I wonder, that can make one cream out of this world, whilst the vast majority are interchangeable and little better than thick milk ?

** Phil.

323
Talk About Anything Other Than Curry / De-gunging a deep-fat fryer ?
« on: October 25, 2010, 01:15 PM »
Any tips on de-gunging a deep-fat fryer ?  The dishwasher is failing to have any impact, so I have just filled it with boiling water and a biological laundry tablet and will run it for a while at the lowest setting to see if that helps.  If not, does anyone have any better ideas ?

** Phil.

324
Does anyone (apart from myself !) remember eating "pie" in the Angel public house, Old Street, almost opposite the junction with Featherstone Street ?  And if so, what are your recollections ?  As far as I am concerned, the pie was out of this world, and it was by no means unusual for me to order a second portion, eaten with as much relish as the first, but try as I will, I cannot re-create either the flavour or the texture.  It was, I am fairly sure, a raised crust pie, but what were the ingredients ?  Was it just beef, and perhaps a small quantity of vegetables such as onion and potatoes, or did it include corned beef as well.  It was so moist, so tender, so wonderful ... !  I really would be grateful if any fellow "Angel" customers could help me get to the bottom of this dish, as re-creating it at home remains very very high on my list of culinary priorities.

325
Pictures of Your Curries / Chicken Bombay
« on: October 05, 2010, 06:48 PM »
Following my earlier messages regarding a base sauce with no onions (http://www.curry-recipes.co.uk/curry/index.php?topic=5044.msg48464), spiced oil in base sauce (http://www.curry-recipes.co.uk/curry/index.php?topic=5015.msg48460;topicseen#msg48460) and the use of Bassar Curry Masala instead of ground red chillies (http://www.curry-recipes.co.uk/curry/index.php?topic=5021.msg48461;topicseen#msg48461), I thought readers might be interested to see pictures of the results.  Below are the finished dish, and my usual accompaniments : German alkoholfrei beer, Burmese lime pickle and Elephant atta chapati.  I would describe the dish as Chicken Bombay : a mild Madras strength sauce with two hard boiled eggs in addition to the free-range chicken.





326
Curry Base Chat / Curry base sauce without onions !
« on: October 04, 2010, 10:42 PM »
Ever since discovering Kris Dhillon's The Curry Secret I have based all of my curries on her base sauce.  Over time I have come to realise that I can speed up the process by sauteeing the onions, garlic and ginger, and then pureeing straight from the saucepan rather than waiting for the mixture to cool, but just recently -- and rather serendipitously -- I discovered that I could make an extremely good base sauce with no onions at all !  I should explain that my wife is 3/4 Chinese, and so making Chinese chicken stock is a regular event in our home, and when this is destined to be used in (say) won-ton noodle soup, we add leeks and ginger towards the end of the preparation.  Normally these are then thrown away, but on the last occasion I suddenly realised that they effectively formed 2/3 of Khris Dillon's base sauce, so without further ado the leeks and ginger went into the blender together with some of the chicken stock, and were there pureed a la KD.  The results were most impressive : not only was the resulting curry just as good as any previous version, we now had effectively two dishes for the price of one : won-ton noodle soup stock, /and/ a KD-style base sauce.  Of course, this base sauce lacks one of KD's key ingredients -- garlic -- but that can be added later, virtually at any stage during the preparation of the stage-2 sauce or even during the preparation of the final curry, depending on how obvious one wants the flavour of the garlic to be.  Give it a go, and let me know what you think.

327
After several years of faithfully following Kris Dhillon's method for preparing the base sauce and final curries (albeit doubling both the quantity of sauce per unit of meat and also doubling the quantity of spices in the sauce), I finally felt I understood the basic ideas well enough to try an alternative approach.  The main disadvantage of KD's methods, to my mind, is the long time needed to prepare the sauce, and it was this that I set out to address.  I decided to make just enough curry for a meal for one, so used one onion, one clove of garlic and one index-finger top-joint of ginger.  All were chopped finely, then gently saut?ed in ghee until very soft.  I then added sufficient boiling water to yield my target volume of curry sauce, and simmered gently for about half an hour.  I then transferred the sauce into a pyrex jug and immediately liquidised it using a Bosch hand blender.  It was clear that the sauce would be of the right consistency.  I reserved about a tablespoon of the stage-1 sauce for the first-stage cooking of the chicken, then transferred the remainder of the sauce back to the saucepan, added a little turmeric and paprika (about half a teaspoon of each), added sufficient groundnut oil to ensure that the spices would cook at the right temperature, and then brought the sauce back to a gentle simmer.  I added sufficient tomato pur?e (but no liquidised peeled plum tomatoes) to achieve the right colour and flavour, then gently cooked the stage-2 sauce for a further 20 minutes.  While the sauce was gently simmering I prepared the chicken as per KD, and basically followed KD's method for preparing the final chicken madras but with double the volume of sauce and double the quantity of spices per unit of sauce.  All was ready within two hours of starting, and was (as far as I was concerned) virtually identical to the flavour that had previously taken 24 hours to achieve (it was certainly not inferior to the 24-hour version in any way). 

So, if you want to achieve a KD-style curry in considerably less time than her method would normally take, you might like to try the method above.  Let me know if you do, and how it turns out.


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